The Fly Guide | June 2025
The Fly Guide: June 2025
Bluefish On The fly
Bluefish are known for their theatrics, aggression, and willingness to feed. They sport a large yellow eye, sharp sickle tail, grayish blue body, and razor-sharp teeth. Fishermen call them greasers, blues, chompers, and yellow-eyed demons. To say the least, bluefish are a riot on the fly. Once you catch one, you’ll be hooked for life. Here are a few tips to help you beat the blues.
Timing: Bluefish frequent NY, NJ, MA, and even ME. They typically arrive in the northeast in late April and stick around into early November. Like other saltwater fish, blues follow bait such as menhaden, squid, and sand eels. Understanding their migration patterns and feeding habits can give you a strategic advantage. For instance, when bluefish initially arrive in April, they often flood shallow water back bays and estuaries ranging from 2 to 7 feet, corralling and trapping menhaden before they continue their destructive journey north. As they spread across the northeast, you can find them attacking sand eels and squid along the open beach in May and June. From July to September, bluefish settle into summering areas including sand beaches and boulder fields. Finally, as water temperatures cool in October and November, they migrate south, periodically stopping to refuel on any available bait.
Gear: Bluefish can be rough on gear so it’s best to be prepared with the right setup. A fast-action 8-10 weight is perfect for burying the hook into large fish while punching hefty flies through the wind. As for reel choice, you’ll need a large arbor with a smooth drag and some stopping power. Remember that a 15-lb bluefish has no problem ripping deep into your backing so make sure your reel can hold a solid 150-200 yards of 30-40lb gel spun. For the fly line, you’ll want an aggressive weight-forward taper in both a float and intermediate option. Two great lines include Royal Wulff Triangle Taper and Rio Outbound Short. As for rigging, it doesn’t need to be fancy. Simply take a full arm span of straight 40lb mono and tie it via albright knot to 8 inches of bite wire. When it comes to fly choice, bluefish flies are simple and easy to tie. Anything with flash will crush fish. A few of our favorites include the Bob's Banger, synthetic half and half, and crease fly. Remember that blues have nasty teeth so ensure you have the right pliers for the job. Our Pursuit pliers are perfect for keeping your hands safe and the fish healthy.
Tactics: There are a few ways to target blues. One method is to look for tailing or floating fish. In the peak summer months, blues love to sit right on the surface with their tail out of the water. A huge giveaway is a giant sickle tail bobbing up and down. If you spot a bluefish you’ll want to get the fish's attention by aggressively stripping your fly. If the retrieve doesn’t draw a reaction, make the same cast and throw in a few pauses. This should get the bluefish riled up. Another way to target these fish is to focus your efforts on fishing inshore rips. A rip is a fast-sweeping current that attracts fish and traps bait. These currents often create white water pockets that act as ambush points for fish to jump in and bombard bait. To entice a bluefish in a rip line, cast up current and let the fly swing down. As the fly is pushed by the current forces give it a few twitches. If you feel a thump, be ready to strip set 2-3 times so that you get a solid hookest.
how to target Predators
Throwing giant flies for predatory fish has slowly garnered the attention of adrenaline-seeking anglers. If you’ve ever thrown giant flies, it can be pretty taxing on the body. It requires strength and grit. That said, it’s essential to define the word “predator.” We are not talking about a trout, carp, or salmon that's going to slowly and delicately sip your fly. Instead, we are referring to toothy fish that smash and chase your offering with violent intent. Our favorite list of predators includes barracuda, pike, musky, and bluefish. Check out the tips below to hunt down your first predator fish.
Casting: A large weighted streamer is akin to a wet sock; it’s not so easy to cast. In order to maximize efficiency, it’s best to change things up and opt for a water-loading cast. This is a technique that uses the surface tension of the water to help launch your fly. In order to properly use this cast, start by making a swift back cast. We understand that the fly is heavy, so you may have to lob it backward. Next, allow the fly to briefly absorb water and tighten any slack line. Finally, punch forward in a smooth motion and allow the fly to launch through the air. While it’s unconventional, it will help to preserve your arms for a full day of fishing.
Rigging: Setting up your leader for large flies is a little different than your standard tippet situation. First, you’ll want to make sure that your leader is much shorter than usual. Rather than a 10- to 12-foot long section, you’ll want to opt for a taper-free 5 to 6 foot leader. The reason we prefer a short leader is that it makes turning the fly over much easier. As for wire, 30 lb bite tippet is perfect for the job. Attaching the wire to the leader is pretty simple: create a perfection loop in the wire and the leader. Next, thread the two loops together and use a uni knot to tie the wire to the fly.
Retrieve and hookset: Large flies often ungulate and glide through the water. When thinking about your retrieve, there’s no right or wrong way to move your fly. It’s all relative to the fish’s response. Use fast retrieves when a fish responds aggressively toward your fly, and use slow and sharp retrieves when a fish is lazy on the fly. At the end of the day, it’s all about reading the fish’s body language. Once you learn to understand a fish’s body language in response to the fly you’ll quickly adapt to any situation. When it comes time to set the hook, you better be ready to give the fish the proper sting. First things first, make sure there's no slack in the line. Second, point the rod directly at the fish and firmly grip the stripping line. Third, with a firm grip pull the line hard toward your hip. Two times should be enough. Keep in mind that setting the hook requires quick thinking, so be sure to keep your hands ready at all times
Tips on Golden Stones & yellow Sally hatch
Stoneflies are a staple trout food on the east and west coast. These delectable trout snacks begin their lifecycle by hatching from eggs to nymphs. As they slowly mature they feed on organic matter and even other nymphs. Next, they rise from the depths and venture onto dry debris transforming into adults. Finally, the adult's mate and the female stones drop the eggs into the water for a complete cycle. While you’ve likely heard about the giant skwala hatch there are plenty of other stone hatches that are overlooked due to their lack of popularity. Two stonefly hatches that make for exceptional fishing are the golden stone and yellow sally. Check out the tips below to catch more fish during your next golden or sally hatch!
Understanding appearance: Before hitting the water it’s crucial to understand the characteristics and appearance of these insects. The golden stone nymph is large growing to about an inch, it sports a distinct gold/ brownish ting with a thin body, 6 legs, and an antenna. The adult golden sports the same 6 legs however, it has a girthier appearance and two sets of wings resting on each other. These large insects typically hatch in June and are abundant throughout the summer. Conversely, the Yellow Sally nymph has a brighter yellow color and is roughly a quarter inch long. Like your typical stonefly nymph, it sports 6 legs and a bright yellow body. As for the adult sally, it has a thin body, six legs, and the same wing configuration as the golden stone. That said, these bugs are predominantly found on the East Coast from late April through July.
Match the size: While the term matching the hatch may sound cliche, fishing a stonefly hatch is all about matching the size of each insect. Golden stones and yellow sallies come in two very different sizes with the latter being much smaller. If you plan on tying golden stone flies don’t be afraid to go big, sizes 6 to 8 are ideal. Flies like the pat’s rubber legs and chubby golden stones are two proven options that resemble the natural look of a golden stone. Both patterns have a long, slender shape, lifelike rubber legs, and golden brown body. As for yellow sallies, the most appropriate size is a 12-14. You can’t go wrong with yellow sally nymph or chubby sally.
Don’t be stubborn: It’s easy to get in a trance watching trout sip stoneflies off the surface. We get it; catching on dries is an amazing experience. However, if the fish refuse your offering and you're not getting much action, nymphing is a surefire way to catch more fish. Indicator rigs, euro nymphing rigs, and two-fly setups are all proven techniques. As a rule of thumb, make sure your nymph consistently bounces bottom.
Add some action: Stoneflies shimmy on the surface as they lay eggs. To add some action to your fly, lightly flick the rod tip. Ensure your fly spends more time in the water than in the air.
Adjust your leader: During June, rivers in the West can fluctuate quite a bit. One day, they can be low and slow, and the next, fast and high. Ensure that you accommodate these changes by adjusting your rig. If the water is low and clear, opt for a longer leader, and if it's fast and high, opt for a shorter leader.
how to fight a fish with drag
We’ve all heard the term “drag” at one point or another. Drag refers to the mechanism (usually a knob) on the side of your fly reel that controls the amount of resistance a fish feels when it pulls line. The drag system allows you to adjust the tension on the line which aids in fighting sizeable fish. If the drag is set too high you risk breaking your line, conversely, if your drag is too light you risk losing the fish due to a lack of tension. Understanding how to utilize drag in the heat of battle can make or break landing the fish of a lifetime. Check out the tips below to fighting fish with drag.
Understand the Knob: Every fly reel has a drag knob that is used to tighten or loosen the tension. Some reels have a much more responsive knob than others. A half crank of the knob on one reel may adjust the drag differently than a half crank on another reel. If you're not sure how touchy your drag is make sure you test it properly. One test that allows you to get a better feel for your reel is the crank and pull test. Simply adjust the drag to zero, pull a foot of line out, and see how the reel responds. Next, take another crank on the drag knob and pull another foot. Pull and tighten the knob until the drag is at max capacity. This test should allow you to understand how much pressure is applied in each slight drag turn. When it’s time to fight the fish you’ll know exactly how much pressure to add.
Tighten or loosen with increments: Inevitably you’ll hook a fish that makes a fool of your drag. The natural response is to tighten the knob in order to apply more pressure and slow the fish down. If any adjustment is needed throughout the battle it should always be slight and gradual. If your adjustment is too sudden the drag can stop the fish dead in its tracks leading to a breakoff. The best thing to do is tighten the drag slowly and gradually through minor adjustments until the fish is under control.
Let the reel do its thing: When a fish goes for a 20, 30, or even 40-yard run at full speed it can be quite intimidating. Your first instinct might be to slow it down by grabbing or palming the reel. Many fishermen pay for this mistake by losing and breaking off the fish. When the reel is tight under the pressure of the drag and the fish is running with all its might any added pressure can result in a break off!
Preset your drag: Before you begin casting and hauling line, it’s crucial to set your drag. If your drag is too loose your reel will spin backwards causing a backlash. That said, if your drag is too heavy you run the risk of breaking the fish off on the first run. Your’e probably thinking how tight should my drag be? A good rule of thumb is to set the drag 3 clicks past the point of backlash. If the drag needs to be adjusted during battle make small adjustments.